DIY Photography for Your Small Business Part 5

As a small business owner, your goal is to sell your product. With the tips I’ve provided over this 5-part series, you should be able to create amazing images to do just that! In Part 5, I’ll share images I’ve created for clients and reveal techniques I applied to help best capture each item.
I got a sheet of translucent white Plexi and placed the violin on top. The Plexi reflected the violin, which added a nice touch, but more importantly reflected light into the shadows. My light source was diffused white light place overhead between the violin and me. 
The lamp was pulled 6 feet from the white background. I used a light on the background so it was brighter than my subject. I metered and exposed for the white lamp shade ensuring there would be detail in the white of the shade and no detail in the white of the background.
The black wood absorbed the light while the lightwood reflected it. In order to have both equally exposed, I metered for the knob and used Adobe Lightroom to bring detail out of the blacks.
I have a NIKKOR 105mm F/2.8 lens that allows me to get super-close to my subjects. This micro lens captures amazing detail shots and works well to capture small objects are tiny details on items you’re photographing.
I used a cluster of three Nikon SB speed lights in a softbox for the subject’s face and one unmodified Nikon SB speed light behind the model to create a rim light on her hat, hair and shoulder. My camera was set to Aperture Priority and I used TTL (Through The Lens) technology to simplify my shoot. 
I shot this bent from a variety of angles until I found one that showed the top details and the legs. By moving around the subject and getting high and low, I was able to find the optimal position that best showcased the item. 
I do not use on-camera or pop-up flash. It creates terrible, unpleasant shadows. If you can use a flash off-camera, go for it! If you can’t, then just go with natural light. Be sure to remember your exposure fundamentals – ISO, F/Stop and Shutter Speed. 
Flat, front light is not that way to go if you’re trying to show an item’s shape. This silver goblet has fine detail that could only be showcased with angled light. I situated the goblet in front of a piece of black foam board and put a Nikon SB speed light on either side. The shadows from the angled light revealed all the delicate details in the etchings. 
I treat all my animal subjects like I do people. I’ll bring light, perhaps pop a little color, dress the set, choose a nice background and I always focus on the eyes! I photographed this chick with a NIKKOR 85mm portrait lens and a Nikon SB speed light.

DIY Photography for Your Small Business Part 3

Nikon Z 7 Photo by Stacy Pearsall
Having a lens that allows you to open your Aperture to F/1.4 or F/2.8 is great because it will give your portraits that “dreamy” look. Remember from Part 1, Aperture impacts depth of field and the more open your Aperture is, the blurrier the background appears. I mainly use the NIKKOR 105mm F/1.4 for my portraits. Don’t worry, you can achieve lovely portraits with your 24-70mm and 70-200mm lenses too. Just as I explained in Part 2, manipulating light helps improve your pictures too. There is a tool you can use to improve the quality of light for your portraits. Investing $20 in a diffuser/reflector combo will make a big difference. 
Most cameras allow you to have a Manual Focus, Continuous Auto Focus, Group Auto Focus or Single Point Auto Focus. I recommend the Single Point Auto Focus feature because you can move the focus point over your subject’s eye and ensure critical focus is where you need it most. When taking portraits, ALWAYS FOCUS ON THE EYE(S). When your subject is angled to the camera, focus on the eye nearest the camera. 
A window is a ready-made light source that’s perfect for run-and-gun portraits. Get your subject as close to the window as possible. Rotate their face until the shadow falls pleasingly on their face. You can also face your subject directly toward the window so there’s no shadow at all.
Find open-shade under an awning or porch. Make sure there’s no direct light or dappled light falling on your subject. The light in open shade is often soft and wraps your subject’s face without creating harsh shadows. You can “kick” more light into the shadows by using a piece of white foam core. I realize your hands will be full of camera, but it can be done with practice. If you’re having trouble, ask your subject to hold the white foam board at chest level and tip it back toward their face. Make sure the board is just out of frame. A dedicated reflector and diffuser is ergonomically friendly and designed for you to be able to hold, manipulate and shoot at the same time. It’s definitely worth the $20!
If you have to shoot in the sun, try rotating your subject so their back is to the sun and their face is in shade. The sun will rim their hair and the shade will be soft, pleasant light. Since the face is most important, expose for the lightest part of the face. As I mentioned in Part 1, Aperture Priority Exposure Mode allows you to set your ISO for the available light, pick an Aperture for desired depth of field, meter for your desired area and the camera chooses the Shutter Speed accordingly. It also lets you use Exposure Compensation to make your picture lighter or darker if you don’t like the outcome.
Posing is the fun part. You can shoot tight with just eyes, nose and mouth, which is a great pose for make-up artists who want to showcase their masterpiece. You can capture a headshot that includes the neck and a portion of the shoulders, which is perfect for jewelry designers who want to show their pieces. Try angling your subject’s face away for a profile. If you’re a hairstyle and want to show the color and style of your subject’s hair, this would be an ideal pose. 
Mid-length and full-length poses are great for those who want to show off clothes, shoes and hats. With both you want to make sure you give your subject head space – don’t crop too tightly above their head. Mid-length means you crop your subject between the hip and knee – don’t crop at the knee, crop above it. Full-length is the entire body – don’t crop off or into the feet. 
I’ll talk more about editing your photos in Part 4 but it’s important to mention in this segment. There are computer software suites like Adobe Photoshop, Nikon Capture NX and One1 that give you the ability to touch up acne, brighten/darken, crop and add a cool toning. If you’re not ready for the computer suites, send your pictures from your camera to your phone and use the apps you’re familiar with like Snapseed and Edit.Lab.

DIY Photography for Your Small Business

You can create your own images quickly, easily, professionally!

 

My niece, Sienna Ditmore, recently graduated esthetics school and I wanted to help her build a photographic portfolio while also demonstrating how she could create her own visual content for her online portfolio and social media pages. If you’re an esthetician, cosmetologist, artisan or entrepreneur, visual documentation of your work is an important asset and key to staying relevant and drawing in new clients. In this series, “DIY Photography for Your Small Business,” I am going to share the same photography tips and tricks I taught Sienna, so you can apply them to your work too. I will discuss gear essentials and techniques, how to create a catalog of beautiful images you can use to build a visually dynamic website, stock images you can use to create your own unique social media engagements and down-and-dirty tricks to capturing solid, beautiful portraits of your clients.

Sienna applies foundation to her client, Cali, during a portfolio building session in Charleston, SC. (Image taken by Stacy L. Pearsall with the Nikon Z 7 and NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/4s lens)

Potential clients devour visual content every day and are very clever consumers who recognize quality when they see it. They critically judge the superiority of an artisan’s work by how it’s presented in an image. If the picture is awful, they swipe and move on. Therefore the quality of images you capture directly impacts a potential client’s first impressions. In short, if you take mediocre pictures of a banging hairstyle, it’s likely the viewer won’t appreciate your efforts, or even really “see it.” That goes for anyone trying to sell his or her creations through pictures. If Sienna is going to build a client base, she’ll not only have to know how to contour with make-up and shape an arched-brow like a boss, she’ll need to be able to capture dynamic, quality images of her creations too.

A natural window light portrait of Sienna’s model, Cali, after completing her make-up portfolio piece. (Image taken by Stacy L. Pearsall with the Nikon Z 7 and NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8 using the FTZ Mount Adapter)

For those of you who do not know, esthetics is the specialization of beauty and skin care. Estheticians like Sienna perform a wide range of services to include facials, wax treatments, lash and brow tinting, make-up and more. Like most specialized job descriptions, hers does not include photography or media. In a world driven by views and clicks, it should be in the top-ten. Like most new esthetics and cosmetology graduates, Sienna literally has no quality content to build her brand, her website or social media pages.

Tip: With a little ingenuity, a spark of creativity and a few minutes of your time, you can create super-cool pictures to use for your business. Here’s an example of what Sienna and I did, and what you can do too!

As most entrepreneurs do, Sienna could license stock images but it won’t be her own creations featured in the images and it costs money. She could hire a pro photographer, but she’d have to do so frequently to keep her content up-to-date and that costs money. Instead of seeing any entrepreneur pay for stock images multiple artisans use, I’d rather you invest that capital in a camera kit you can use create your own pictures over the course of your career. That’s what I’ve recommended to Sienna. That’s what I encourage you to do as well.

A pallet of eyeshadow is prepped with lights for a still life image Sienna can use on her website. The image will be taken with the Nikon Z 7 and NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8 using the FTZ Mount Adapter. The lights used are a household LED light panel found at any hardware store and a Manfrotto Lumimuse 8 LED.

Let’s talk gear for a moment. I know you’ve probably been snapping pics using your smart phone, but frankly a smart phone’s camera capabilities are limited and the quality is just okay. If you want to do killer portraits and product shots, you’ll have to invest in a proper camera and lens(s) kit. If you’re anything like Sienna, and every other entrepreneur just striking out, you don’t have much pocket money. That’s perfectly understandable. You don’t have to break the bank to get your hands on a starter kit. A Nikon D3500 with two lenses is less than $500, a Nikon D750 with one lens is less than $1,800 and a Nikon Z 6 with FTZ Adapter and one lens is less than $2,750. 

I know you’re probably wondering what the difference is between the cameras other than price and it all comes down to file size, capability and quality. I’ll keep this brief and in lay terms as best I can. Most smart phones like the one Sienna carries in her back pocket have 12 megapixel cameras while an entry-level Nikon D3500 has 24.2 megapixels. Basically this means the Nikon D3500 can record double the amount of data than Sienna’s phone can and produce higher quality files to boot. More megapixels means better quality photos. Keep this in mind too; megapixels mean nothing if you’re using a cloudy, scratched lens. Have a look at your phone’s camera lens. Is it covered in finger grease like mine? It’s probably riddled with scratches from being in and out of your pocket just like Sienna’s too. Those imperfections are impossible to work around when you’re trying to capture sharp, quality images.

Tip: There are three sensor types Nikon offers: DX, FX and BSI FX. The smallest is the DX format, which is a cropped sensor in the Nikon D3500. Then there’s the FX sensor, which is equivalent to a 35mm film and considered a “Full Frame.” The FX sensor is in the Nikon D750. Finally, there’s Back Side Illuminated BSI FX, which is also full frame and enhances low-light capture capability. The Nikon Z 6 has the BSI FX sensor within. 

Nikon Z 6 featured in this picture has the BSI FX sensor within. 
The AF-P DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR that comes in the Nikon D3500 kit

An entry-level NIKKOR lens like the one that comes with the Nikon D3500 kit has clarity, range, multi-layered optical coating, vibration reduction, distortion reduction, auto-focus and more. In translation, it captures clean, sharp images with little to no flare or distortion. Plus, you can’t stick it in your back pocket, nor will you feel inclined to swipe your thumb across the lens. Well you could, but I wouldn’t recommend doing that. 

Feeling overwhelmed? Don’t be. Here’s the short of it. No matter what phone camera you have now, any entry level DSLR and lens will blow its capabilities out of the water. Let me put it to you like this… Every blush compact comes with a dinky blush-brush included – it works, but it’s not ideal. Instead of using the cheap plastic throw-away brush, you buy a dedicated, pro-level brush with domed shaped tip and luxurious, smooth applicator bristles. Why? Because that’s all it was engineered to do – apply and blend blush perfectly.

Like Sienna, and so many others, you may be thinking about convenience. The phone is always with you, yes. However, the phone’s camera is not good enough, nor does it have the capability to produce the quality, professional images your career demands and deserves. Leave your phone for calls and your camera for taking pictures. 

Tip: You may be looking at an entry-level camera now because it’s on the low end of your budget. That’s understandable. Please consider the long term before you make any purchases. A DX format camera is good. It’ll get the job done for you and do it better than any smart phone camera out there. An FX format camera is great. It’ll out perform any DX camera in terms of quality and capability. And there’s the BSI FX sensor, which is the best there is bar none. It doesn’t get better than that. If you can afford to get an FX or BSI FX sensor camera, do it. It’ll save you from upgrading your gear once you realize how amazing creating your own pictures can be!

An eye shadow pallet from Sienna’s make-up kit is lit with a household LED light panel covered in blue gel and a Manfrotto Lumimuse 8 LED light panel with yellow gel. (Image taken by Stacy L. Pearsall with the Nikon Z 7 and NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8 using the FTZ Mount Adapter)