DIY Photography for Your Small Business Part 1

My niece recently graduated esthetics school and I wanted to help her build a photographic portfolio while also demonstrating how she could create her own visual content for her online portfolio and social media pages. If you’re an esthetician, cosmetologist, artisan or entrepreneur, visual documentation of your work is an important asset and key to staying relevant and drawing in new clients. In this series, “DIY Photography for Your Small Business,” I am going to share the same photography tips and tricks I taught Sienna, so you can apply them to your work too. I will discuss gear essentials and techniques, how to create a catalog of beautiful images you can use to build a visually dynamic website, stock images you can use to create your own unique social media engagements and down-and-dirty tricks to capturing solid, beautiful portraits of your clients.
Let’s talk gear for a moment. I know youÕve probably been snapping pics using your smart phone, but frankly a smart phoneÕs camera capabilities are limited and the quality is just okay. If you want to do killer portraits and product shots, youÕll have to invest in a proper camera and lens(s) kit. If youÕre anything like Sienna, and every other entrepreneur just striking out, you donÕt have much pocket money. ThatÕs perfectly understandable. You donÕt have to break the bank to get your hands on a starter kit. A Nikon D3500 with two lenses is less than $500, a Nikon D750 with one lens is less than $1,800 and a Nikon Z 6 with FTZ Adapter and one lens is less than $2,750.
You should get familiar with the three elements of photographic exposure – ISO, F/Stop and Shutter Speed. I like to refer to it as your “What I.F.S.” This method is a great way to remember the three critical elements of creating a picture: ISO, F/Stop and Shutter Speed. What if the room is dark? Answer: increase your ISO. What if I have a distracting background? Answer: use a wide-open aperture. What if I want to capture motion? Answer: slow down your shutter speed. If you don’t know what ISO, F/Stop or Shutter Speed mean, don’t worry – I’ll explain.
ISO was a numeric rating created in film days to denote film’s light sensitivity. The higher the ISO number the more sensitive to light the film was. The lower the ISO the less sensitive. Today’s “digital film” or sensor, aka charged coupled device, is the light sensitive part of your digital camera. Unlike film days, you don’t have to change a roll of film to change your camera’s light sensitivity. All you do is press the ISO button and rotate a dial.
The Aperture controls depth-of-field, which means it determines how much will be in focus in front of and behind the subject you’re focusing on. If you set your Aperture to F/2.8, whatever is in front of and behind your subject will be out of focus. If you switch to F/22, you will have nearly infinite sharpness in front and behind your subject. Again, the lens you have plays a factor too. Remember, some lenses may not be able to “open up” to F/2.8, which means you may not be able to achieve that blur, aka bokeh, you’re looking for. Also, the focal length of the lens impacts depth-of-field. I don’t want to get too technical, but you should know wider lenses like the NIKKOR 14-24mm natively has more depth-of-field no matter the F/Stop you choose. On the other hand, longer lenses like the NIKKOR 70-200mm have inherently less depth-of-field.
Shutter speed refers to the length of time the cameraÕs shutter is open. The longer the shutter is open, the more light will be let in. Shutter speeds are durations of time indicated in seconds or fractions of a second. They are displayed on the camera’s menu, or within the viewfinder, as a denominator of the fraction. For example, the display may show 500, which means 1/500th second. If you see what looks like ” you’ve set your Shutter Speed to full second increments. For example, 1″ is one second and 2″ is two second. Unless you’re doing long nighttime exposures or fancy wave pictures, you DO NOT want that. Beware of the camera shake. A high shutter speed like 1/1000th of a second will let in very little light, while a lower shutter speed like 1/20th of a second will be letting in more light. The slower shutter speed you have, the more likely you are to have blurry images.
A high shutter speed like 1/1000th of a second will let in very little light, while a lower shutter speed like 1/20th of a second will be letting in more light. The slower shutter speed you have, the more likely you are to have blurry images. Tip: Beware of the camera shake by ensuring your shutter speed is 1/60th of a second or faster. Also, you can help reduce camera shake by using your lenses focal length as a shutter speed guide. Simply make sure your shutter speed is set to be the same or faster than your lens’ focal length. What do I mean. Here’s an example. If you have a lens that 200mm, be sure your shutter speed is 1/200th of a second or faster. If the lens is 400mm, set your shutter speed to 1/400th of a second or faster.
All three elements of the ÒWhat IFSÓ directly impact each other. If the F/Stop changes, the Shutter Speed must be adjusted. There are many combinations of ISO, F/Stop and Shutter Speed that will create the same exposure – this is referred to as equivalent exposures. For instance, if you change your ISO, you’ll have to adjust your F/Stop or Shutter Speed to keep your exposure on-point. Using a full-auto exposure more like Program or semi-automatic exposure mode like Aperture Priority can help reduce exposure slip-ups. Keep it simple. I suggest using Aperture Priority where all you have to do is set the ISO based on available like, choose your F/Stop and let the camera determine the Shutter Speed.